Travel Guide // Mid-Coastal Maine
My acquaintance with Maine in the summertime happened by accident, an unexpected by-product of my family’s impetuous move from California to Nashville. Longing to keep their friendship going despite the distance, my daughter & her best friends struck up a pact to attend summer camp together. In Maine. I mean, sure? It was such a darling idea, and wasn’t Tennessee closer to Maine than California anyway?
It took a single sleep-away camp drop-off for me to fall hard for the rugged, honest beauty of Maine. Every time we ferry the children to & from camp (we’re now on summer number four), I long to stay in Maine, too. If you prefer charm to scene, quaintness to ostentation, and abhor crowds & pretension when vacationing, then Maine should be on your list.
One caveat: Maine is deceptively large & there is a bit of you-can’t-get-there-from-here, so my list of recommendations is focused on the mid-coast & is far from comprehensive. As you well know, I only recommend places I have actually visited & loved. A great debt is owed to my dear friends, Lyn & Jason, who shared their love of Maine with my family & taught us just about everything we know about this truly magical place 🤍
WHERE TO STAY // Other than a few notable exceptions, hotels in Maine tend to be comfortable if unfussy affairs more focused on ocean views & activities than threadcounts, if you know what I mean.
We typically stay at either Spruce Point Inn or Linekin Bay Resort due to their proximity to friends & our children’s camps. Spruce Point has more historic charm (including a handsome wood-paneled bar), whereas Linekin gives children more space to roam free-range. Both offer swimming pools, tennis courts, lawn games, children’s camps & killer oceanfront views.
WHERE TO EAT // Just to be clear, this section is for non-lobster roll-related meals, which I do enjoy in Maine from time to time despite photographic evidence on Instagram to the contrary.
Waves (Boothbay Harbor) for breakfast worth waiting in line for. Try the blueberry-stuffed french toast & lobster benedict.
Treats (Wiscasset) for excellent cappuccinos, baked goods & sandwiches that all sell out daily.
Ports of Italy (Boothbay Harbor) for delicious negronis & housemade pasta.
Bred in the Bone (Damariscotta) for beautifully prepared local & seasonal cuisine. A personal favorite.
Coastal Prime (Boothbay Harbor) for very good seafood (including excellent sushi) with a dreamy view of Boothbay Harbor.
in a silent way (Wiscasset) for a v. curated wine list & small bites
Cozy’s Dockside (Southport) has a very good lobster roll called the “Knuckle Sandwich” (HA), but they also make an excellent burger, fish tacos & the best onion rings of my WHOLE LIFE.
WHERE TO SHOP // You don’t go to Maine to shop, exactly, but it just may surprise you how many wonderful shops there are to visit.
L.L. Bean Flagship (Freeport) Did you even go to Maine if you didn’t shop here? It’s all of your outdoorsy, preppy dreams on steroids, with so many buildings they call it a “campus.”
Sea Bags (multiple locations) upcycles sail cloth into very handsome & completely indestructible tote bags. Have & LOVE.
Sylvan Art Gallery (Wiscasset) contains so many paintings I covet. A jewel box!
The Kingfisher & The Queen (Damariscotta) for a beautifully-curated selection of home goods.
Antiques are major in Maine, but I am always too busy juggling kids to dive in. Join me in urging my friend, Hollie, of Stuck on Hue to share her expertise on le subject!
KID-FRIENDLY MAINE // Light on sandy beaches & heavy on craggy coast, Maine might not be obviously kid-friendly? But based on how much my children love visiting Maine, I assure you: this is kid paradise.
Coastal Maine Botanical Garden (Boothbay) is a must-visit for so many reasons, including & especially the spectacular children’s garden & Thomas Dambo giants.
Maine State Aquarium (Boothbay Harbor) is a petite collection, but it is newly remodeled (reopens next week!) & a terrific rainy day option.
Take to the water, whether by kayak, canoe, lobster boat or ferry. A the tippy-top of my list is the Cabbage Island Clambake, where you cruise to & from an idyllic island supper.
Pemaquid Point Lighthouse (New Harbor) Don’t miss your chance to say, Look kids, a lighthouse! Tour the maritime museum & art gallery, climb the lighthouse tower & take in the truly stunning ocean views.
Raptor Falls Mini Golf (Arundel) Random, but if you’re driving from Boston to Maine, our favorite stop is this (no surprise here) dinosaur-themed miniature golf course.
Get the kids a scoop of homemade ice cream at The Jefferson Scoop (Jefferson, better known as “J Scoop” to Wavus campers), Round Top (Favored by Kieve campers) and Downeast Ice Cream Factory (Boothbay Harbor).
DUH, EAT LOBSTER ROLLS // This is the content you came here for. Here’s the list of every lobster roll I’ve eaten & loved in Maine (research ongoing, perhaps forever):
Red’s Eats (Wiscasset)
Five Islands Lobster Co. (Georgetown)
Shaw’s Wharf (New Harbor)
Bob’s Clam Hut (Kittery)
Harraseeket Lunch and Lobster (Freeport)
The Clam Shack (Kennebunkport)
Eventide (Portland)
Shannon’s Unshelled (multiple locations)