First things first: we kicked off The Fusco Farewell Tour with a visit to Swan Oyster Depot. I mean, *of course* Swan. The line is unapologetically long, the servers are gruff San Francisco originals, they don’t have menus or take credit cards (these guys would rather die than use an iPad as a register) and outsiders are regarded with derision. The interior is all worn white tile, vintage Niners memorabilia and butcher block countertops you *know* could tell some stories. When I go to Swan, I feel like I’m visiting the San Francisco of my parents’ youth, before Loma Prieta and $4 toast and Google Buses.
Oh yeah, and the seafood is PRISTINE. The fresh oysters, chowder, cracked crab and shrimp louis salad are all classic renditions, though my favorites are the smoked salmon and Italian-style sashimi (beautifully sliced fish topped with olive oil, lemon juice and capers). Coming here without drinking a draft Anchor Steam would feel wrong no matter what the time of day.
Simply put, this place is legendary. Go there when you have the patience for the line, a hankering for fish and the desire to to visit San Francisco like she used to be.